Craftsman Riding Lawn Mower Will Not Go Into Gear: Fixes and Prevention – 2025

You hop on your Craftsman rider, fire it up, press the pedal or move the lever—and nothing. The mower won’t go into gear, or it lurches and stalls when you try. It’s frustrating and can derail your whole yard day. The quick fix? Check that the transmission bypass (freewheel) lever is disengaged and the parking brake is fully released. Also verify the drive belt is on and intact. These are the fastest, most common fixes for a Craftsman riding lawn mower that won’t go into gear.

In this guide, you’ll get a complete troubleshooting path from easiest checks to advanced mechanical fixes. We’ll cover drive belts, linkage adjustments, clutch/brake issues, transaxle problems, and how to prevent this from happening again. By the end, you’ll know exactly how to diagnose and repair a Craftsman riding lawn mower that won’t shift into gear—or when it’s time to call a pro.

Common Causes of a Craftsman Riding Lawn Mower Not Going Into Gear

• Freewheel/bypass lever engaged (hydrostatic models)
• Parking brake stuck or not fully released
• Drive belt off, stretched, or broken
• Idler or tensioner pulley seized or weak spring
• Clutch/brake pedal linkage out of adjustment
• Shift linkage disconnected, bent, or seized
• Transaxle input pulley loose or stripped
• Low or contaminated hydrostatic fluid (sealed units are non-serviceable)
• Differential or internal transaxle failure
• Safety interlock switch preventing engagement
• Frozen or rusted parts from long storage

How to Fix a Craftsman Riding Lawn Mower That Won’t Go Into Gear

Important: Always remove the key, disconnect the spark plug wire, and work on a level surface. Use wheel chocks when working under the mower.

Method 1: Quick External Checks (5–10 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Mower won’t move at all, gear lever moves freely, or pedal has no resistance.
• Goal: Rule out the most common, non-mechanical errors.

Fix Steps

1. Disengage the Freewheel/Bypass Lever
   – For hydrostatic models: Locate the bypass lever or pull pin at the rear of the mower near the transaxle. Make sure it’s pushed in or set to “Drive/Run,” not “Push/Freewheel.”
   – Why: When engaged, the hydro transmission is bypassed and the mower won’t move even in gear.

2. Release the Parking Brake Completely
   – Press the brake/clutch pedal and release the parking brake lock. Confirm the brake indicator is off.
   – A stuck brake pivot can keep the brake slightly engaged and prevent movement.

3. Verify the Drive Belt
   – Look under the mower at the belt running from the engine pulley to the transaxle input pulley. Ensure it’s on the pulleys, not frayed, and has tension.
   – If the belt is off, shredded, or glazed, it can’t transmit power to the transaxle.

4. Check Blade Engagement
   – Make sure the PTO/blade engagement lever or switch is in OFF/Disengaged. Some models safety-lock gear engagement if the PTO is engaged.

5. Listen for Engagement
   – With engine off, move the gear lever or pedal through positions. You should feel resistance or detents. A totally loose feel suggests a disconnected linkage.

Testing

• Reconnect spark plug, start the mower, and try forward/reverse on flat ground with low throttle.
• If still no movement, proceed to Method 2.

Method 2: Inspect and Replace the Drive Belt and Tensioner (20–45 minutes)

A worn or off drive belt is one of the most common causes.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Engine runs, shifting feels normal, but mower doesn’t move or slips under load. Burning rubber smell or belt dust may be present.

Fix Steps

1. Access the Belt
   – Lower the deck or remove it for better access (follow your model’s manual). Remove any belt guards.

2. Inspect Belt Condition
   – Look for cracks, glazing (shiny surface), fraying, stretched spots, or oil contamination.
   – Check belt size against the manual (many Craftsman riders use part numbers like 532429636, 140294, or compatible variants—verify by model).

3. Inspect Idler/Tensioner Pulleys and Spring
   – Spin pulleys by hand. They should spin freely and quietly. Replace if gritty, wobbly, or noisy.
   – Check the tensioner arm for free movement and the spring for adequate tension and no rust fractures.

4. Replace Belt (if damaged)
   – Route the belt precisely per the belt routing diagram under the footrest or in the manual.
   – Ensure the belt sits correctly in pulley grooves (V-side into V-pulleys, flat side on flat idlers).
   – Replace worn pulleys and tensioner spring as needed.

5. Check Transaxle Input Pulley
   – Verify it’s tight on the shaft and the keyway isn’t sheared. Tighten the retaining bolt to spec (often 35–55 ft-lb—check your manual).

Testing

• Start the engine, disengage parking brake, set low throttle, and attempt forward/reverse on flat ground.
• If it moves briefly but slips, recheck belt routing and tensioner function.

Method 3: Adjust Clutch/Brake and Shift Linkage (30–60 minutes)

On manual-gear models, misadjusted linkage or braking can prevent gear engagement or stall the mower.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Grinding when trying to shift, stalls when releasing clutch, won’t go into gear, or lever won’t stay in gear. Pedal may feel spongy.

Fix Steps

1. Inspect Clutch/Brake Pedal Linkage
   – Follow the pedal rod to the clutch idler bracket and brake arm at the transaxle.
   – Look for bent rods, missing cotter pins, worn bushings, or elongated holes.

2. Adjust Clutch/Brake
   – Most models have an adjustment nut on the brake rod near the transaxle.
   – With the brake released, there should be slight free play; the brake should fully engage when pedal is depressed.
   – Adjust until the mower doesn’t creep in neutral and releases smoothly.

3. Set Brake Pad Clearance
   – On transaxle brake calipers (usually on right side), there’s a nut that sets brake puck pressure.
   – Tighten until the wheel cannot be turned by hand with brake on; back off slightly so it releases freely.

4. Adjust Shift Linkage
   – Check the shift arm at the transaxle. Ensure the shift rod is connected and moves the arm through its range.
   – If lever doesn’t reach detents at the transaxle, lengthen/shorten the rod at the adjustment threads to align positions.

5. Lubricate Pivots
   – Apply dry lube or light grease to pivot points and detents. Avoid belt contamination.

Testing

• With engine running and brake/clutch fully depressed, shift into low gear; slowly release pedal.
• If gears grind, recheck clutch disengagement and belt tension. Grinding on a manual gearbox usually means the input is still spinning—belt tensioner not releasing enough.

Method 4: Hydrostatic Transmission Checks (30–90 minutes)

Hydro models rely on belt-driven pumps; bypass issues, air in the system, or internal failure can stop movement.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Mower won’t move in either direction despite correct belt and bypass position; moves weakly or only after warming up; surging or whining noises.

Fix Steps

1. Confirm Correct Belt and Pulley Function
   – Ensure the engine-to-transaxle belt spins the input pulley at all times (hydro systems don’t “clutch” like manual units).

2. Purge the Hydrostatic System (Air Removal)
   – Lift rear wheels safely off the ground.
   – Start engine at low throttle, disengage parking brake, bypass lever disengaged (drive mode).
   – Slowly move forward and reverse control for 5–10 minutes to purge air.
   – Shut off and lower; test on ground.

3. Check for External Leaks
   – Look for oil around seals, hoses (if external reservoir type), or case halves.
   – Low fluid can cause no-drive. Many Craftsman hydros are sealed and not user-serviceable.

4. Reservoir and Fluid (If Serviceable)
   – Some units have a fill cap/reservoir. Check level and top with manufacturer-specified hydraulic oil (often 20W-50 motor oil or Hy-Tran equivalent—verify your model).
   – Do not overfill. Purge again after topping up.

5. Assess Internal Failure
   – If the pulley turns, bypass is off, purge done, and still no drive, the hydro may be internally worn (pump or motor).
   – At this point, replacement of the transaxle is typically more economical than rebuild.

Testing

• After purging, test uphill and under light load.
• Weak drive in both directions suggests internal wear; weakness in one direction can point to control arm/return-to-neutral linkage issues—inspect and adjust.

Method 5: Shift and Differential Issues (45–120 minutes)

Primarily for gear-drive models.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Lever won’t go into any gear; stuck in one gear; grinding; or the wheels spin unevenly when off the ground.

Fix Steps

1. Inspect Shift Plate and Detent
   – Remove fender pan if needed. Ensure the shift plate slots aren’t bent and the detent spring/ball is intact.
   – A worn detent can prevent solid gear engagement.

2. Check Internal Brake Not Dragging
   – If brake pucks are stuck, the mower may stall or not move. Clean or replace brake components.

3. Examine Axle Keys and Hubs
   – Pull rear wheels; verify axle keys are intact. Stripped hubs or missing keys will prevent wheel drive even if gears engage.

4. Internal Gearbox Concerns
   – If linkage is correct and you feel gears engage, but no drive reaches the axles, internal failures (shift fork, gears) may exist.
   – Disassembly requires gaskets, seals, and precise reassembly—typically a professional job.

Testing

• With rear raised, rotate one wheel and observe the opposite direction rotation (open diff behavior). If one wheel freewheels with crunching noises, suspect differential wear or broken spider gears.

Prevention Tips and Maintenance Advice

• Keep belts clean and dry. Replace drive belts every 2–4 seasons depending on usage.
• Lubricate pedal pivots, idler arms, and shift linkages each season.
• Inspect and replace idler pulleys at the first sign of noise or wobble.
• Store indoors to prevent rust on linkage and pulleys.
• After winter storage, check the bypass lever, belt condition, and tire pressure before first mow.
• Avoid towing heavy loads on hydro models; heat and strain shorten transaxle life.
• Blow off grass clippings from the transaxle and pulleys after each mow to prevent heat buildup.

Pro Tips

• Mark belt routing with a quick photo before removal to avoid misrouting on reinstall.
• Replace the tensioner spring whenever you replace a severely worn drive belt—weak springs cause chronic slipping.
• If your Craftsman has intermittent no-drive, inspect the frame around the transaxle mounts for cracks that can misalign pulleys under load.
• Use factory-spec belts. Aftermarket belts that are slightly off-length or angle often slip or jump.
• If shifting grinds on a manual model, briefly blip throttle down and fully depress the clutch; forcing the lever can bend forks.
• Keep tire pressures equal; uneven pressures can mimic weak drive on hydro models.
• A high-pitched whine from a hydro under load often indicates low fluid or air—purge before assuming failure.

When to Call a Professional

• You suspect internal hydrostatic or gearbox damage (metallic noises, no drive despite correct belt and linkage).
• The transaxle input pulley or shaft is wobbling, indicating bearing failure.
• You find significant oil leakage from a sealed hydro unit.
• Brake caliper or internal brake components are seized and you’re not comfortable with disassembly.
• Frame cracks or alignment issues around the transaxle mounts.

What to look for in a technician:
– Experience with Craftsman/Husqvarna/AH transaxles (many Craftsman units share components).
– Transparent labor rates and parts sourcing.
– Warranty on repairs (30–90 days typical).
– Ballpark costs: Drive belt and pulleys ($100–$250 parts and labor). Hydro transaxle replacement ($450–$900+ parts and labor depending on model). Linkage adjustments ($80–$150).

Warranty considerations:
– If your mower is under warranty, avoid disassembling the transaxle. Document issues and contact Craftsman/Sears authorized service.

FAQ

Q: How do I find the bypass/freewheel lever on my Craftsman?

A: Look at the rear of the mower near the transaxle. It’s often a metal rod or plastic knob you pull or push. The decal usually shows “Freewheel/Push” and “Operate/Drive.” Ensure it’s in Drive to move.

Q: My belt looks fine—why won’t it move?

A: Belts can glaze or stretch and look intact but still slip. Also check the tensioner spring, idler pulley bearings, and verify the belt is the correct length and routed properly. A loose transaxle input pulley or sheared key can also prevent drive.

Q: Can I add fluid to my hydrostatic transmission?

A: Many Craftsman hydros are sealed and not designed for user servicing. If yours has a reservoir, use the specified oil and purge air after topping up. If sealed and performance is weak, replacement is usually the fix.

Q: It moves in reverse but not forward. What does that mean?

A: Check the control linkage to the hydro arm or the shift rod alignment on manual models. Asymmetrical movement often points to linkage misadjustment rather than internal failure.

Q: The mower stalls when I release the clutch. Is that a gear issue?

A: Often it’s the brake not releasing or the deck/PTO engaged creating load. Ensure the brake is fully releasing and the belt isn’t binding. Verify the deck belt and spindles spin freely with PTO off.

Q: Do safety switches stop it from going into gear?

A: Safety interlocks typically prevent engine starting or PTO engagement, not mechanical shifting. However, a stuck brake switch can keep the brake applied on some models. Verify switches click and operate correctly.

Q: How often should I replace the drive belt?

A: Inspect every season; replace every 2–4 years or 100–200 hours depending on conditions. Heat, debris, and oil contamination shorten life.

Alternative Solutions

If repeated drive issues persist or your transaxle is failing, consider these options:

Get Your Craftsman Mower Moving Again

By following this guide, you have multiple proven ways to fix a Craftsman riding lawn mower that won’t go into gear:
– Quick checks: bypass lever, parking brake, and PTO disengagement
– Drive system fixes: belt condition, tensioner pulleys, and input pulley
– Linkage adjustments for clutch/brake and shifting
– Hydrostatic purging and assessment
– Differential and internal gearbox diagnostics

Start with the simple steps—they solve most cases in minutes. With regular belt inspections, linkage lubrication, and proper storage, you can prevent most drive issues before they start.

Still stuck? Describe your model number and symptoms in the comments for tailored advice. Found this helpful? Bookmark it for seasonal tune-ups. You’ve got this—get your Craftsman riding lawn mower back in gear today.