Craftsman Riding Lawn Mower Not Moving: Quick Fixes – 2025

Is your Craftsman riding lawn mower not moving when you shift into gear or press the pedal? It’s frustrating, especially when the lawn won’t wait. The quickest fix is often simple: check the freewheel/bypass lever at the rear—if it’s in the “push” position, the mower won’t drive. Set it to “drive,” then restart and try again. Also verify the parking brake is released and the drive belt is on.

In this complete guide, you’ll learn the most common causes for a Craftsman riding mower that won’t move and multiple ways to fix it—from easy checks you can do in minutes to more advanced repairs like belt replacement, variator inspection (for CVT models), and hydrostatic drive troubleshooting. By the end, you’ll know exactly how to diagnose, repair, and prevent drive issues so your mower gets back to work.

Common Causes of a Craftsman Riding Lawn Mower Not Moving

• Freewheel/bypass lever set to push mode
• Parking brake engaged or stuck
• Drive belt off, worn, or broken
• Idler pulley or tensioner spring failure
• Transmission drive pulley loose or stripped
• Hydrostatic transmission fluid low/airlocked (sealed units may fail)
• Variator pulley (CVT) seized or belt jammed (select models)
• Clutch/brake pedal linkage misadjusted or bent
• Axle key/shear key missing on rear wheels
• Shift linkage out of adjustment
• Debris binding the belt or pulleys
• Transmission failure (internal)

How to Fix a Craftsman Riding Mower That Won’t Move

Method 1: Quick Checks (5–10 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Engine runs, blades may engage, but mower doesn’t move in forward or reverse. No grinding or unusual noises.
• Good for: Sudden loss of drive after pushing or towing the mower, or after storage.

Fix Steps

1. Verify safety interlocks:
   – Ensure you’re seated, brake released, and PTO/blades disengaged.
2. Check the freewheel/bypass lever:
   – Locate at the rear near the transaxle. Move it to “drive/engaged.”
3. Release the parking brake:
   – Pump the brake/clutch pedal and fully release. Listen/feel for the brake arm to retract.
4. Inspect the drive belt quickly:
   – Look under the mower (engine off, key out). Confirm the belt is on both the engine pulley and transaxle pulley.
5. Check debris:
   – Clear sticks, twine, or clumps tangled around pulleys, belt, or axles.
6. Try moving again:
   – Start engine, select forward, press pedal. Test reverse.

Testing

• If it moves, you’re done. If it still won’t move or moves weakly/slips, continue with Method 2.

Method 2: Drive Belt and Tension System (20–45 minutes)

A slipping, stretched, or broken drive belt is one of the most common reasons your Craftsman riding mower won’t move, especially after 2–4 seasons.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Mower moves slowly on flat ground, stops on hills, squeals, burning rubber smell, or visible belt cracks/glazing.
• Inspect with engine off and key removed. Lift seat or hood and look under the chassis.

Fix Steps

1. Confirm model and belt routing:
   – Check your model tag (under seat) and look up the belt part number (e.g., common Craftsman drive belts range from 954-04060 to OEM-specific). Use the routing diagram under the footrest/hood or the manual.
2. Remove the deck (if required for access):
   – Lower deck, remove cotter pins and links, slide deck out. Many Craftsman mowers require deck removal to access the drive belt.
3. Release belt tension:
   – Identify the idler pulley/tensioner arm and spring. Using a wrench, pivot the arm to slack the belt.
4. Inspect pulleys and belt:
   – Spin pulleys by hand. They should rotate smoothly and silently. Replace noisy/loose pulleys (worn bearings). Look for a cracked, glazed, or frayed belt.
5. Replace the drive belt:
   – Route the new belt per diagram over the engine (crank) pulley, idlers, and transaxle pulley. Ensure belt sits in pulley grooves correctly.
6. Check the tensioner spring:
   – If stretched or broken, replace it. Weak tension causes slipping.
7. Reassemble:
   – Reattach the deck, ensure all pins/links are secure.

Testing

• Start the mower, disengage PTO, shift to forward and reverse. Climb a small incline. It should pull smoothly without slipping.

Method 3: Linkages, Brake, and Wheel Keys (15–30 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Gear lever moves but no response, mower won’t roll freely with bypass in push, or one wheel spins freely without moving the tractor.

Fix Steps

1. Brake/clutch linkage:
   – Under the frame, locate the brake arm and rod. Ensure the return spring pulls the brake off when you release the pedal. Lubricate pivot points. Adjust the brake rod nut so the brake fully releases but still engages when pressed.
2. Shift linkage:
   – Check the rod from lever to transaxle. Tighten loose set screws or clevis pins. Adjust per manual so neutral is true and forward/reverse engage.
3. Rear wheel keys:
   – Remove rear wheel caps and check for a missing/sheared key in the axle hub. Replace the square key if missing; torque wheel nuts snugly.

Testing

• With the mower off, engaged in drive, try pushing—there should be resistance. With bypass engaged, it should roll easily.

Method 4: Hydrostatic Transmission or Variator (Advanced, 30–90 minutes)

Craftsman riders commonly use either a hydrostatic transaxle (smooth, pedal-controlled) or a CVT/variator system (speed selector with a variable pulley). Both can prevent movement if compromised.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Hydrostatic symptoms: No movement in either direction despite good belt, or slow/weak motion after long storage. Sometimes whine from transaxle.
• Variator symptoms: Speed selector ineffective, jerky movement, belt rides low/high incorrectly, or seized variator pulley.

Fix Steps (Hydrostatic)

1. Purge air from hydrostatic system:
   – Safely lift rear wheels off the ground.
   – Set parking brake, bypass lever to drive.
   – Start engine at low throttle, disengage PTO.
   – Slowly move forward and reverse controls for 5–6 cycles each.
   – Shut off, lower to ground, test drive.
2. Check transaxle drive fan:
   – Inspect the plastic cooling fan on the transaxle input pulley. Replace if broken; overheating can cause loss of drive.
3. Belt and pulley inspection:
   – Ensure the belt rides correctly in the transaxle input pulley and the pulley is tight on the input shaft.
4. Fluid considerations:
   – Many hydro units are sealed (no user service). If the unit leaks, binds, or grinds, replacement may be required.

Fix Steps (Variator/CVT)

1. Inspect the variator pulley assembly:
   – The center pulley stack should move smoothly when the speed lever changes. If rusty or stuck, disassemble per manual, clean, and lightly lubricate sliding components (use dry lube—avoid contaminating belts).
2. Variator belt and primary belt:
   – Many CVT systems use two belts: engine-to-variator and variator-to-transaxle. Inspect and replace both if worn.
3. Tensioner checks:
   – Verify springs and idlers provide proper tension across both belts.

Testing

• After purging or variator service, test drive at low speed, then higher settings. Ensure smooth, consistent motion in forward and reverse.

Method 5: Transmission Drive Pulley and Axle Issues (20–40 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Belt spins, but transaxle input pulley doesn’t rotate; or loud slipping/grinding at the input; or one axle spins without moving the tractor.

Fix Steps

1. Tighten/inspect the transaxle input pulley:
   – With engine off, check the nut/bolt securing the pulley. If loose, remove, inspect keyway and key. Replace worn parts and reassemble to spec.
2. Axle integrity:
   – Inspect the transaxle axle ends for broken snap rings or stripped hubs. Replace as needed.
3. Internal failure:
   – If input spins but mower still won’t move, the internal hydro gears or differential may be damaged. Consider professional rebuild or replacement.

Method 6: Electrical Interlocks Affecting Drive Engagement (5–15 minutes)

While movement is mostly mechanical, some Craftsman models won’t drive if interlocks aren’t satisfied.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Engine runs but stalls when trying to move, or no response when engaging pedal/gear.

Fix Steps

1. Seat switch:
   – If the seat switch is faulty, the engine can cut when you attempt to move. Test by sitting firmly or temporarily pressing the switch by hand for diagnosis only. Replace faulty switch—do not bypass safety devices for use.
2. PTO switch:
   – Ensure PTO is off; a stuck PTO switch can confuse the interlock logic. Cycle it several times and test.

Testing

• Confirm the engine no longer cuts and the tractor moves normally.

Prevention and Maintenance Tips

• Inspect the drive belt every 25 hours or monthly during the season.
• Replace belts every 2–3 seasons or at first signs of glazing/cracks.
• Keep the transaxle cooling fan and fins free of grass buildup.
• Avoid towing heavy loads beyond the manual’s rating; it strains belts and hydros.
• Store the mower on level ground; engage parking brake lightly to avoid linkage sticking.
• Purge hydrostatic drives after long storage.
• Lubricate pivot points and linkages each season.

Pro Tips

• Use OEM or high-quality Kevlar belts; cheap belts stretch and slip faster.
• Photograph belt routing and linkage positions before disassembly for easier reassembly.
• If motion fades as the mower heats up, suspect a weak hydro unit or inadequate cooling airflow.
• A belt that repeatedly jumps off likely indicates a bent idler arm, missing belt guide, or worn pulley bearings.
• When replacing idler pulleys, match diameter and groove profile exactly; wrong pulleys change belt path and tension.
• Clean pulleys with isopropyl alcohol—avoid greasy lubricants near belts.
• If your mower bogs under load but blades spin fine, the drive belt (not the deck belt) is the likely issue.

When to Call a Professional

• Persistent no-move condition after belt, linkage, and purge checks
• Noticeable hydrostatic fluid leaks or burnt fluid smell from a “sealed” unit
• Grinding noises from the transaxle or locked wheels
• Variator assembly corrosion requiring full teardown
• Input shaft/keyway damage on the transaxle

What to look for in a service provider:
– Experience with your specific Craftsman model or its transaxle manufacturer (Hydro-Gear, Tuff Torq, Peerless)
– Clear diagnostic fee and written estimate
– Warranty on parts/labor (commonly 90 days)

Typical costs:
– Drive belt replacement: $80–$200 (parts + labor)
– Idler pulleys/springs: $50–$150
– Hydro purge/adjustments: $75–$150
– Hydrostatic transaxle replacement: $400–$900+ (parts) plus labor

Warranty considerations:
– If under warranty, avoid unauthorized modifications and keep receipts for belts/pulleys. Use OEM parts to prevent claim denial.

FAQ

Q: Why does my Craftsman riding mower not move even though the engine runs?

A: Common reasons include the freewheel/bypass lever set to push, a worn or broken drive belt, a stuck parking brake, or a faulty idler/tension spring. Less commonly, a hydrostatic or variator issue may be the cause.

Q: How do I know if my drive belt is bad?

A: Look for cracks, fraying, glazing (shiny surface), or a belt sitting deep in pulley grooves. Slipping on hills, squeals, or burning rubber smell are also signs.

Q: Can I adjust a hydrostatic transmission to make it move again?

A: You can purge air from the system and ensure the belt, input pulley, and cooling fan are in good shape. Most hydro units are sealed and not user-serviceable; if internal components fail, replacement is typical.

Q: My mower moves in reverse but not forward—why?

A: Check belt routing and tension first. Misadjusted shift linkage or worn variator components (on CVT models) can also cause directional issues. In hydros, internal swash plate or linkage problems may be at fault.

Q: Is it safe to tow my riding mower?

A: Only short distances with the bypass lever in push mode. Towing with the hydro engaged can damage the transmission. Avoid heavy loads; they strain belts and hydros.

Q: Do I need to remove the deck to replace the drive belt?

A: On many Craftsman models, yes—removing the deck provides clear access to the drive belt path. Some models allow belt replacement without full deck removal, but it’s tighter and more difficult.

Q: What’s the difference between the deck belt and drive belt?

A: The deck belt spins the blades; the drive belt powers the rear transaxle. A mower that cuts but doesn’t move likely has a drive belt issue, not a deck belt problem.

Q: How do I identify my mower model to get the right parts?

A: Find the model/serial tag under the seat or on the frame. Use that number to look up the correct drive belt, pulleys, and springs.

Alternative Solutions

Sometimes repair costs approach replacement value on older units. Consider:

Get Your Craftsman Riding Mower Working Again

You now have a clear plan to fix a Craftsman riding lawn mower not moving:
– Quick checks: bypass lever, parking brake, safety interlocks
– Drive belt, idlers, and tensioner inspection/replacement
– Linkage adjustments and wheel key checks
– Hydrostatic purge and variator servicing
– Professional repair options for transaxle issues

Start with the easy steps and work your way up. With a fresh belt, proper tension, and a purged hydro or serviced variator, most mowers are back to full drive quickly.

Still stuck or solved it already? Share your model number and what worked for you—your experience can help other owners. Found this helpful? Bookmark it for your next tune-up. You’ve got this—get your Craftsman moving and your lawn looking sharp again.