Craftsman Lawn Mower Will Not Move: Quick Fixes and Full Repair Guide – 2025

If your Craftsman lawn mower will not move, you’re not alone—and it’s frustrating when the engine runs but the mower won’t budge. The quickest fix for many models is simple: check that the drive control/cable is engaged and the drive belt is on the pulleys. For riding mowers, confirm the parking brake is released and the freewheel/bypass lever is set to “Drive.” These two checks solve a large number of no-drive issues in minutes.

In this complete guide, you’ll learn every common cause and step-by-step solutions for both Craftsman walk-behind and riding mowers. We’ll cover belts, cables, transmissions/hydrostatic drives, wheels, keys, axles, and safety switches. By the end, you’ll know how to diagnose, fix, and prevent your Craftsman mower’s drive problems with confidence.

Common Causes of a Craftsman Lawn Mower Not Moving

For Walk-Behind/Self-Propelled Craftsman Mowers

• Drive belt off, stretched, or broken
• Drive cable stretched, seized, or disconnected
• Worn or stripped drive gears in the wheels or transmission
• Drive control not engaging due to a faulty bail lever or linkage
• Debris wrapped around axle or drive pulley
• Frozen wheels or damaged wheel pawls (ratchets)
• Transmission failure (friction disk on some models, or sealed gearbox)

For Craftsman Riding/Tractor Mowers

• Hydrostatic bypass/freewheel lever open (mower set to push mode)
• Parking brake engaged or brake linkage stuck
• Drive belt off, worn, or broken (engine-to-transaxle belt)
• Idler pulley seized or tensioner spring missing/broken
• Sheared axle key or stripped hub
• Hydrostatic transaxle low on fluid (non-serviceable on many models) or failed internally
• Clutch/brake pedal not returning fully (weak spring, linkage rusted)
• Safety switch issue (seat, brake, or PTO) preventing drive engagement
• Differential broken or axle snapped
• Debris or twine wrapped around transaxle pulley

Important: Always reference your specific model number (e.g., 917.xxxxxx or CMXGZAMxxxx) for correct parts. You can find it under the seat (riders) or on the deck/rear frame (walk-behind). Use your model number to look up diagrams on Sears PartsDirect or Craftsman’s site.

How to Fix a Craftsman Walk-Behind Mower That Won’t Move

Method 1: Quick Checks (5–10 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Engine runs, you squeeze the drive lever, but wheels don’t turn or slip.
• First look: Watch the front/rear drive pulley and belt when you squeeze the lever.

Fix Steps

1) Safety first:
– Turn the engine off. Remove the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starts.
2) Inspect the drive cable:
– Squeeze the drive lever. Watch the cable at the transmission/gear housing.
– If the cable doesn’t move or is slack, adjust it at the handle (threaded adjuster) or replace it if frayed.
3) Check the drive belt:
– Remove the belt cover (usually a few screws on the deck).
– Look for a belt that is off the pulley, cracked, glazed, or stretched. Re-seat or replace as needed.
4) Check wheel engagement:
– Lift the mower and spin the drive wheels by hand.
– If one wheel spins freely both directions without clicking, the wheel ratchet/pawl may be worn.
5) Clear debris:
– Remove grass, twine, or debris around pulleys, axles, and under the belt cover.

Testing

• Reconnect the spark plug wire.
• Start the mower, engage drive on a flat surface, and test at low speed. If the wheels try to move but slip, proceed to Method 2.

Method 2: Adjust or Replace the Drive Cable (15–30 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Lever feels loose or engagement is delayed; mower moves only when you pull the lever very hard.

Fix Steps

1) Locate the adjuster:
– At the handle, find the inline barrel adjuster or threaded cable stop.
2) Adjust tension:
– Turn the adjuster to shorten the cable sheath, increasing pull. Aim for immediate engagement with a slight lever free play (about 1/8–1/4 inch).
3) Replace if needed:
– If the cable is rusted, frayed, or seized, remove at the handle and at the transmission bracket.
– Route the new cable exactly like the old one and secure with clips.

Testing

• With the engine running, engage the lever. The mower should start pulling smoothly without excessive effort.

Method 3: Replace the Drive Belt (20–45 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Belt looks loose, cracked, or falls off. Mower moves intermittently or not at all under load.

Fix Steps

1) Remove the belt cover and, if required, the front wheels for better access (model dependent).
2) Note routing:
– Take a photo of the belt path around the engine pulley, idlers, and transmission pulley.
3) Remove old belt:
– Release tensioner spring (if present) and slip the belt off pulleys.
4) Install new belt:
– Use OEM-spec belt. Route properly and ensure the belt sits fully in pulley grooves.
5) Verify idler and pulleys:
– Spin idlers by hand; replace any that feel rough or seized.

Testing

• Start the mower and engage the drive. The mower should move with steady, positive traction.

Method 4: Inspect Wheels and Transmission (30–60 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Wheels spin freely both ways or make grinding noises. Mower still won’t move after belt/cable fixes.

Fix Steps

1) Check wheel gears/pawls:
– Remove drive wheels. Inspect plastic/metal gears and pawls. Replace worn parts as a set (both sides).
2) Inspect transmission drive pinion:
– Check for stripped teeth or a cracked housing.
3) Friction disk models (rare on Craftsman walk-behinds):
– Inspect rubber friction wheel—replace if glazed or worn.
4) Replace transmission if failed:
– Disconnect belt, cable, and mounting bolts. Swap with OEM part.

Testing

• Reassemble and test on grass. If one wheel still slips, replace the opposite wheel gear/pawl.

How to Fix a Craftsman Riding Mower That Won’t Move

Method 1: Quick Setup Checks (2–5 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Engine runs, but pressing the pedal does nothing, or the mower rolls freely.

Fix Steps

1) Freewheel/bypass lever:
– Set to “Drive” or “Engaged.” If set to “Tow/Bypass,” the hydrostatic transmission won’t propel.
2) Parking brake:
– Fully release. If the brake pedal sticks, lubricate pivot points and check the return spring.
3) Safety switches:
– Sit on the seat and ensure PTO is off. Some models won’t move if the seat switch is open or if brake switch is engaged.

Testing

• With the brake off and bypass in drive, gently press forward. If still no motion, continue.

Method 2: Inspect the Drive Belt and Tensioner (20–45 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Belt squeals, mower moves slowly, or doesn’t move on hills. Visual belt damage or belt off-track.

Fix Steps

1) Safety:
– Park on level ground. Remove key, disconnect spark plug(s), set parking brake, and chock wheels.
2) Access:
– Lower the deck to its lowest position. On some models, removing the mower deck makes access easier.
3) Inspect belt:
– Check the engine-to-transaxle belt for cracks, glazing, or stretching. Ensure it’s routed correctly around engine pulley, idlers, and transaxle pulley.
4) Tensioner/idlers:
– Move the tensioner by hand; it should pivot freely and spring back. Replace seized idlers or broken/missing springs.
5) Replace belt:
– Use the exact OEM belt number from your model’s parts list. Incorrect belts cause slippage and no-drive conditions.

Testing

• Reassemble. Start the mower, release brake, and test forward/reverse. If there’s still no motion, proceed.

Method 3: Check Linkages, Axle Keys, and Hubs (20–60 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Engine revs, belt moves, but the mower won’t drive or only one wheel spins. You hear clicking from the rear.

Fix Steps

1) Control linkage:
– Verify the forward/reverse control rod moves the transaxle arm fully. Adjust linkage length per manual if travel is limited.
2) Axle keys:
– Remove rear wheels (support mower safely). Inspect for sheared keys between axle and wheel hub—replace if missing or damaged.
3) Hubs and differential:
– Check for stripped splines in wheel hubs or broken differential gears (metal shavings/no drive on both sides).

Testing

• Reinstall wheels and test drive. If motion is weak or inconsistent, continue.

Method 4: Hydrostatic Transmission Diagnosis (30–90 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• No movement despite correct belt and linkages. Movement fades as mower warms up. Jerky or weak drive, especially uphill.

Fix Steps

1) Bypass lever and purging:
– Ensure bypass is in drive. Purge the hydrostatic system:
1. Jack up rear safely with stands.
2. With engine running, move the control slowly forward 5 seconds, neutral, then reverse 5 seconds—repeat 5–6 times.
3. Lower to ground and repeat with light load. This removes air in the hydro.
2) Check cooling and debris:
– Clear grass from transaxle fan and housing. Overheating reduces drive power.
3) Fluid considerations:
– Many Craftsman hydro units are sealed and not user-serviceable. If the unit is low or contaminated, it may require replacement.
4) Replacement:
– If the transaxle whines excessively, loses drive when hot, or has leaking seals, replace with the same model number unit. Follow torque specs and belt routing.

Testing

• After purging, test on level ground, then uphill. Consistent power indicates success.

Method 5: Brake System and Safety Interlocks (15–30 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Mower tries to move but feels “held back,” or will only move when brake pedal is partially pressed.

Fix Steps

1) Brake arm:
– With brake released, ensure the brake arm on the transaxle is fully off the brake disc. Adjust the brake rod or cable as specified for your model.
2) Rusted pivots:
– Lubricate pedal pivots and linkages. Replace weak or stretched return springs.
3) Safety switches:
– Test seat and brake switches with a multimeter. Replace faulty switches that interrupt drive commands.

Testing

• Confirm free rolling when pushed with bypass engaged, and positive drive when bypass is closed.

Prevention Tips and Maintenance Advice

• Keep belts clean and dry: Oil or fuel on belts causes slipping—replace contaminated belts.
• Inspect yearly:
• Walk-behind: Drive belt, cable, wheel gears, and pulleys.
• Riding: Drive belt, idlers, tensioner spring, axle keys, and linkage travel.
• Clean debris:
• After each mow, brush off pulleys, fans, and under-belt covers.
• Store properly:
• Avoid leaving the mower in damp grass. Moisture corrodes cables, pulleys, and linkages.
• Use OEM parts:
• Belts and cables must match length and profile. Aftermarket misfits cause persistent issues.
• Purge hydrostatic units annually or after storage if specified by the manual.
• Lube points:
• Apply dry lube to cable ends and pivot points every season.

Pro Tips

• Mark belt routing with paint pen before removal for quicker reassembly.
• If your walk-behind “pulls left/right,” replace both drive wheels or pawls together to balance traction.
• A glazed belt often looks shiny—if your mower loses drive when hot, a glazed belt is a likely culprit.
• On riders, a weak tensioner spring is as bad as a worn belt. Replace them together for long-term reliability.
• If the mower moves in reverse but not forward (or vice versa), suspect linkage adjustment or hydrostatic control arm travel.
• Never pressure-wash the transaxle area; water intrusion shortens hydro life.
• After installing a new hydro transaxle, always perform the purge procedure to avoid aeration issues.

When to Call a Professional

• Hydrostatic transaxle whine with no movement after belt/linkage checks.
• Repeated belt throwing despite correct routing and new components (possible bent pulleys or misaligned frames).
• Broken differential/axle, stripped hubs on both sides, or visible transaxle oil leaks.
• Electrical interlock faults you can’t trace (requires wiring diagnosis).
• Transmission replacement on walk-behind models if you’re not comfortable with drivetrain disassembly.

Typical costs:
– Walk-behind drive cable: $15–$35 parts, 0.5–1 hr labor.
– Walk-behind transmission: $60–$150 parts, 1–2 hrs labor.
– Riding mower drive belt: $25–$70 parts, 0.5–1.5 hrs labor.
– Idler pulleys/springs: $10–$40 each.
– Hydrostatic transaxle: $400–$900 parts, 2–4 hrs labor.

Warranty notes:
– Newer Craftsman mowers may have limited warranties on drivetrain. Modifications or non-OEM parts can void coverage. Keep receipts and document maintenance.

FAQ

Q: Why does my Craftsman riding mower roll freely but won’t drive?

A: The hydrostatic bypass/freewheel lever is likely set to push/tow mode. Set it back to “Drive.” If the lever is correct, check the drive belt and tensioner.

Q: My self-propelled Craftsman mower engine runs, but the wheels don’t turn. What’s most likely?

A: A loose or broken drive belt or a stretched drive cable. Inspect under the belt cover and adjust/replace parts as needed.

Q: The mower moves for a few minutes, then stops when hot. What does that mean?

A: Heat-related belt slippage or a failing hydrostatic transaxle. Start by replacing a glazed belt and checking tensioners. If the issue persists, the hydro may be failing internally.

Q: One rear wheel spins but the mower doesn’t move. What should I check?

A: Check the axle key and hub splines on that wheel. A sheared key or stripped hub will let the wheel spin without moving the axle.

Q: Can I add oil to my hydrostatic transaxle?

A: Many Craftsman hydros are sealed and non-serviceable. Adding fluid is not recommended unless your specific model provides a service port and procedure. Consult your model manual.

Q: My walk-behind pulls only when I lift the front slightly. Why?

A: The belt may be stretched and losing tension, or the cable needs adjustment. Replacing the belt and adjusting the cable usually restores normal traction.

Q: Is there a fuse or sensor that stops drive?

A: Safety switches (seat, brake, PTO) can prevent engagement on riders. Walk-behinds typically rely on mechanical systems; no drive is usually belt/cable/gears, not a fuse.

Alternative Solutions

If your Craftsman mower has a failed hydrostatic transaxle or hard-to-source transmission, you may consider:
– Rebuilding/Refurbished transaxle (when supported)
– Upgrading to a compatible, newer hydro model
– Replacing the mower if the repair exceeds 50% of the mower’s value

Get Your Craftsman Lawn Mower Working Again

Following this guide, you now have multiple ways to fix a Craftsman lawn mower that will not move:
– Quick checks: bypass lever, parking brake, safety switches
– Belt, cable, idler, and linkage inspections and replacements
– Wheel hubs/keys and transmission repairs
– Hydrostatic purging and, if needed, transaxle replacement

Start with the simple steps and work methodically. Most no-drive issues are caused by belts, cables, or bypass settings and can be fixed in under an hour. With proper maintenance and the right parts, your Craftsman mower will be back to full drive power.

Have you tried these steps? Share your model number and what fixed it in the comments to help other readers. Found this helpful? Bookmark it for future reference. Don’t let a stuck mower slow you down—solve your Craftsman lawn mower not moving today.