Craftsman Lawn Mower Not Getting Fuel: Fix It Fast – 2025

Nothing is more frustrating than pulling the cord on your Craftsman lawn mower only to have it sputter, stall, or not start at all. If your Craftsman lawn mower is not getting fuel, the quick fix is often to check and clean the carburetor bowl and jet, ensure the fuel valve (if equipped) is open, and replace old fuel. Many no-fuel issues trace back to stale gas, clogged jets, or a blocked fuel filter.

In this guide, you’ll get a full troubleshooting blueprint to diagnose exactly why your mower isn’t getting fuel and how to fix it step by step. We’ll cover common causes, multiple repair methods from easy to advanced, prevention tips, and when to call a pro. By the end, your Craftsman mower should be starting reliably and running strong.

Common Causes of a Craftsman Lawn Mower Not Getting Fuel

• Stale or water-contaminated gasoline
• Clogged fuel filter or fuel line
• Closed or faulty fuel shutoff valve
• Clogged carburetor main jet or emulsion tube
• Dirty or stuck carburetor float/needle
• Blocked tank vent (gas cap vent not breathing)
• Faulty fuel pump (for some riding mowers)
• Debris in carb bowl or stuck bowl nut gasket
• Collapsed primer bulb or cracked primer line (on engines with a primer)
• Choke not working, or linkage stuck
• Air filter soaked with fuel or oil (restricts mixture)
• Safety interlocks preventing run (riders): not fuel-related, but can mimic symptoms

How to Fix a Craftsman Lawn Mower Not Getting Fuel

Important: Work in a well-ventilated area. Keep sparks/flames away. Wear gloves and eye protection. Turn the ignition off, remove the spark plug wire, and close the fuel valve (if equipped) before working.

Method 1: Quick Checks and Fresh Fuel (Fast, often fixes 50% of cases)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Engine won’t start, starts then dies, requires repeated priming, or runs only on starter fluid.
• Goal: Rule out bad fuel, venting issues, and obvious blockages.

Fix Steps

1. Replace old fuel:
   – Drain the tank into an approved container.
   – Refill with fresh, ethanol-free fuel if available, or E10 max.
   – Optional: Add fuel system cleaner (e.g., Sea Foam) as directed.
2. Check the gas cap vent:
   – Loosen the gas cap and try starting.
   – If it runs with a loose cap, your cap vent is clogged—replace the cap.
3. Inspect and open the fuel shutoff valve:
   – Ensure the valve lever is parallel to the hose (open).
   – If the valve feels stuck or leaks, replace it.
4. Primer bulb (if equipped):
   – Press bulb; it should firm up and you should smell fuel at carb throat.
   – If cracked or not drawing fuel, replace the primer bulb and check primer line.
5. Air filter:
   – Remove and inspect. If soaked with oil/fuel or heavily clogged, replace.
6. Choke operation:
   – Move the choke lever. Verify the choke plate fully closes/opens at the carb.

Testing

• Reconnect spark plug wire. Start the mower.
• If it runs only while the cap is loose or with choke on, proceed to Method 2 or 3.

Method 2: Check Fuel Flow From Tank to Carburetor (Simple, 15–25 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• You need to confirm fuel is reaching the carburetor.

Fix Steps

1. Verify flow at the fuel line:
   – Close the fuel valve (if present) or clamp the fuel line with locking pliers.
   – Remove the fuel line at the carburetor.
   – Place the hose into a container, release clamp/open valve.
   – Strong, steady stream = good. Trickle/no flow = blockage upstream.
2. If weak/no flow:
   – Inspect fuel line for cracks, kinks, or internal collapse. Replace if suspect.
   – Replace the inline fuel filter (arrow points toward carb).
   – Check the tank outlet screen (some models have a filter sock). Clean or replace.
   – For riding mowers with a fuel pump:
   • Crank engine and watch output from pump to carb. Weak/no pulsing flow suggests a bad pump or vacuum line. Replace as needed.
3. Reconnect line securely with new clamps.

Testing

• With restored flow, attempt to start. If it still stalls or needs choke, the carburetor is likely clogged—continue to Method 3.

Method 3: Clean Carburetor Bowl and Main Jet (Most common fix, 30–45 minutes)

This is the single most effective repair when a Craftsman mower is not getting fuel due to varnish or debris.

Diagnosing the Issue

• Symptoms: Starts with starter fluid but dies, surges under load, only runs on choke. Indicates restricted main jet.

Fix Steps

1. Prep:
   – Shut off fuel valve or clamp fuel line. Remove spark plug wire.
   – Place a rag under the carb.
2. Remove the carburetor bowl:
   – Use a wrench to remove the bowl nut (often the main jet on Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kohler small engines).
   – Catch fuel. Remove bowl carefully. Note the bowl gasket—replace if damaged.
3. Clean the bowl and nut/jet:
   – The bowl nut often has tiny holes (the main jet). Use carb cleaner and a fine wire or a jet cleaning tool to clear holes. Do not enlarge.
   – Clean the emulsion tube (if accessible from below—gently push out from the venturi side on some carbs).
   – Wipe bowl clean; remove varnish and sediment.
4. Inspect the float and needle:
   – Gently push float up and down. It should move freely and shut fuel off when level is raised.
   – If the needle tip is grooved or stuck, replace needle and seat.
5. Reassemble:
   – Install bowl with gasket oriented correctly.
   – Tighten bowl nut snugly but don’t over-torque.
   – Open fuel valve/remove clamp and check for leaks.

Testing

• Prime (if applicable) and start. If it runs consistently off choke, you’ve fixed the issue.
• Persistent surging or only-running-on-choke means a deeper carb clean is needed—go to Method 4.

Method 4: Full Carburetor Removal and Deep Clean (Advanced, 60–90 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• Method 3 improved things only slightly, or no change. You may have internal varnish, clogged idle/transition circuits, or faulty gaskets.

Fix Steps

1. Remove the carburetor:
   – Note linkages and springs with photos before removal.
   – Remove air filter housing, disconnect fuel line, throttle/choke linkages, and carb mounting nuts.
2. Disassemble:
   – Remove float, needle, bowl, main jet, emulsion tube, idle jet/mixture screw (count turns to lightly seated before removal, then record).
   – Remove all rubber/plastic parts before soaking.
3. Clean thoroughly:
   – Soak metal parts in carb cleaner or ultrasonic cleaner 15–30 minutes.
   – Blow out all passages with compressed air (wear eye protection).
   – Verify all jets and tiny ports pass air freely.
4. Rebuild:
   – Install a carb rebuild kit (gaskets, needle, seat, O-rings).
   – Reassemble in reverse, restoring mixture screw to recorded position.
5. Reinstall:
   – Refit linkages and gaskets. Reconnect fuel line and air filter housing.

Testing

• Start and adjust idle/mixture per engine manual. Engine should run smoothly without choke and respond to throttle.

Method 5: Address Less-Common Fuel Delivery Issues (20–40 minutes)

Diagnosing the Issue

• If the carb is clean and you have flow, investigate these areas.

Fix Steps

1. Choke and governor linkage:
   – Ensure choke plate fully closes for cold start and fully opens afterward.
   – Clean and lubricate linkages lightly.
2. Intake leaks:
   – Spray carb cleaner around the intake gasket and carb mounting while idling. If RPM changes, replace gaskets.
3. Fuel pump (riders):
   – Replace pulse line if cracked or soft.
   – Install a new pump if output remains weak.
4. Tank debris:
   – If flakes or rust appear in the bowl repeatedly, remove and flush the tank. Consider an inline filter upgrade.
5. Ignition masquerading as fuel issue:
   – A weak spark can mimic fuel starvation. Check the spark plug condition and gap; replace if fouled. Confirm strong blue spark.

How to Prevent Future Fuel Problems

• Use fresh fuel; don’t store gas more than 30 days unless treated.
• Add fuel stabilizer to every fill during mowing season.
• Run the mower monthly in off-season or drain the tank and run the carb dry before storage.
• Replace the fuel filter every season on riders and every 1–2 seasons on walk-behinds if equipped.
• Keep the air filter clean to maintain correct fuel-air mix.
• Periodically clean the carb bowl at the start of the season.
• Store equipment in a dry, cool place; keep the gas cap vent clear.

Pro Tips

• Use ethanol-free gas (E0) if available; it reduces varnish and phase separation.
• If you must use E10, buy fuel in small quantities and rotate quickly.
• Mark your fuel can with the purchase date to avoid stale gas.
• Install a transparent inline fuel filter to visually monitor flow and debris on compatible models.
• Photograph throttle/choke linkage before removal—it saves reassembly headaches.
• Never poke jets with hard steel that can enlarge holes; use soft copper wire or proper jet tools.
• Surging at idle after carb cleaning often means a still-clogged idle jet—clean again or replace.

When to Call a Professional

• You’ve cleaned and rebuilt the carb but the mower still won’t stay running.
• There’s fuel in the oil (smells like gas), indicating a leaking needle/seat or float issue needing expert diagnosis.
• Repeated debris in the carb suggests tank corrosion requiring replacement.
• Riding mowers with pressurized fuel systems or EFI (rare on Craftsman) need specialized tools.
• You suspect bent linkages, governor problems, or internal engine issues (low compression).

Typical costs:
– Carburetor cleaning: $60–$120
– Carburetor replacement (walk-behind): $40–$120 parts, plus labor
– Fuel pump (rider): $25–$80 parts
– Shop diagnostic fee: $40–$80

Warranty notes:
– If your mower is still under warranty, contact Craftsman or the engine manufacturer (Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Honda) before disassembly to avoid voiding coverage.

FAQ

Q: How do I quickly tell if my Craftsman mower isn’t getting fuel?

A: Spray a small amount of carb cleaner or starting fluid into the air intake and try starting. If it runs briefly and dies, you likely have a fuel delivery issue (clogged jet, filter, or line). If it still doesn’t fire, check spark and compression.

Q: What type of gas should I use in a Craftsman mower?

A: Use fresh, unleaded gasoline, 87+ octane. Ethanol-free fuel is best. If using E10, don’t store it more than 30 days unless you add fuel stabilizer.

Q: How often should I replace the fuel filter?

A: For riding mowers, replace annually. For walk-behinds with filters, every 1–2 seasons or anytime you notice restricted flow.

Q: My mower only runs on choke. What does that mean?

A: The main jet or emulsion tube is partially clogged, causing a lean condition. Clean the carb bowl and main jet (Method 3), and if needed, perform a full carb cleaning (Method 4).

Q: Why does my mower start then die after a minute?

A: Commonly, the gas cap vent is blocked, creating a vacuum in the tank. Loosen the cap; if it runs, replace the cap. Other causes include clogged filters or a sticking carb float/needle.

Q: Can I clean the carb without removing it?

A: Yes. Removing the bowl and cleaning the main jet in place often restores operation. However, persistent surging or running issues usually require full removal and deep cleaning.

Q: Fuel is leaking from the carb. What should I do?

A: Shut off the fuel. Likely a stuck float or worn needle/seat. Clean or replace the needle and seat, verify float height, and install a new bowl gasket.

Alternative Solutions

If repeated carb cleaning doesn’t hold or you’d rather not rebuild:

Get Your Craftsman Lawn Mower Working Again

Following this guide, you now have multiple ways to solve a Craftsman lawn mower not getting fuel:
– Quick fixes with fresh fuel, vented cap, and open shutoff
– Verified fuel flow, new filter, and clear lines
– Carburetor bowl and jet cleaning—the most common, effective repair
– Full carburetor rebuild or replacement if needed
– Preventive steps to avoid future clogs

Don’t let fuel issues sideline your weekend. Work through these methods in order, and you’ll have your Craftsman mower starting first pull and cutting clean again.

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